Canang Sari [an Indonesian travel diary, pt. III]

Canang Sari is a traditional Balinese offering central to Hindu rituals in Bali, Indonesia. It consists of a small, colourful arrangement of flowers and other items (rice, candies, cigarettes, sometimes even coffee), typically placed on an offering tray, to honour the gods, spirits and ancestors

For PART 2

DAY 12 (14.11.24) BALI, Munduk and its waterfalls

I woke up around 7, grabbed a banana pancake with a chocolate topping, fresh fruit, a coffee, and caught up with Claire (a French expat in Australia) and Laura (from Valencia). With rain expected around noon, I rented a scooter at the hostel and set out early to explore Munduk’s famous waterfalls.

First, I hit up the village to grab some cash, then headed toward Melanting Waterfall, a lush, jungle-framed spot with a steep, solo hike down to the falls. This towering waterfall wasn’t for swimming, but it set the bar high for the day. Next stop: Labuhan Kebo Waterfalls. Just a short ride from Melanting, this place was all about layers: multiple levels of falls, a charming bridge, and jungle gardens. Tempting as the water was, I skipped swimming with gray skies creeping in, and continued on.

From there, it was a half-hour to Banyumala Twin Waterfalls, one of Munduk’s most famous attractions. The route led to a misty, unseen view of the Twin Lakes, but the walk to Banyumala was a whole journey, winding through plantations and jungle. Banyumala itself was packed, but totally worth it. These twin falls pour into a clear pool surrounded by lava rocks and greenery. I finally caved and went for a swim, dodging the crowd as best as possible for photos. Just as I was about to leave, rain hit, so I took shelter briefly and then headed back out.

Next, I found Banyu Wana Amertha Waterfalls on Google Maps. It’s less known but ended up being the highlight of my day. This spot had four waterfalls, with the first two busy with Instagrammers, but the lower two were practically mine alone. When the weather turned foggy and mystical, the biggest waterfall felt straight out of a dream. I had the place to myself in the rain and went for a skinny dip: a bit surreal but incredible.

On my way back up from the skinny-dipping waterfall, still feeling thrilled, I came across a local woman with a small stand selling coconuts and some touristy bits and pieces. I gave in to a cold coconut, savouring it as I noticed a few unfamiliar fruits scattered around. Intrigued, I decided to try them out.

First, there was this one called “snow fruit”: a bizarre find with a bean-like pod you open to reveal soft, fluffy white beans. It had a mild, sweet flavour that didn’t quite hit the mark for me, but it was interesting to try. Then came the snake fruit, aptly named for its scaly skin resembling that of a snake. The flavour was unique but didn’t blow me away either. Once I’d finished the coconut water, I asked her to cut it open so I could scoop out the pulp.

When I went to tip her for her kindness, though, I was a bit let down, she’d already charged me quite a lot for everything. It wasn’t the best ending to our little exchange, but trying out those new flavours was still worth it.

Around 4 p.m., hungry and tired, I headed to Warung Mades Munduk, a Lonely Planet pick. I was their only diner (4:30 PM isn’t exactly peak time), but the food was great. I tried lawar (a savory pork and green bean dish) and gadar gulung (a coconut-filled crepe) for dessert. Then, I took the long way back to the hostel, wandering through golden-hour rice fields and soaking in the quiet, local vibe of Munduk, a refreshing contrast from tourist-heavy areas.

Back at Desa Hostel, I attempted a self-shave (a less-than-perfect job trying to recreate the Ubud barber’s work), showered, and finally crashed in bed for a bit. Later, I grabbed some gado-gado (veggies in peanut sauce) and met two Italians. We talked long into the night before I finally called it a day, just as my waterfall photos started blowing up on Instagram.

DAY 13 (15.11.2024) BALI, Munduk -> Pemuteran

The day started off rough with a vivid, painful dream of my ex cheating, leaving me feeling drained and foggy-headed. I managed to shake it off a bit by getting to breakfast before anyone else. Coffee helped. I chatted briefly with the Italians before heading back to pack my backpack for the trip up to northwest Bali. After coordinating a ride to Ubud for the next day, I hopped on my scooter and set off.

The drive was beautiful at first, winding through the lush landscapes of Munduk, but soon turned to heavy traffic, flanked by big trucks and lined with less scenic stretches. After about an hour and a half, I arrived at Mangrove Bay, a sleek, modern hostel in a village close to Pemuteran. The change in atmosphere was noticeable: the landscape became drier and dustier, and I began seeing more mosques and women in hijabs, a reminder of the cultural diversity in this part of the island. Though the hostel had a dorm setup, the vibe was still surprisingly upscale.

After checking in and cooling off at the pool, I asked about a diving trip to Menjangan Island, famed for its pristine coral reefs in Bali’s West Bali National Park. However, I was told there were no boats available that afternoon. Frustrated, I ventured into Pemuteran to try booking directly with one of the dive schools. No luck. Every place I asked had the same schedule for morning tours only.

Exploring Pemuteran Beach was disheartening. Though dotted with a few beautiful, high-end resorts, the beach itself was polluted with trash, a stark contrast. Feeling hungry, I found a laid-back beach bar called Dimpil, where I enjoyed a delicious local dish of fish wrapped in banana leaves with curry soup.

Afterward, I decided to snorkel at Pemuteran’s underwater sculpture garden, a unique coral restoration project where visitors can sponsor coral transplants. But my excitement quickly soured. The water was murky, with an oily film on the surface, and debris floating everywhere. I barely lasted 10 minutes before swimming back to shore, feeling repulsed. The staff kindly refunded my snorkeling fee, which took the edge off, but it was still a letdown.

Determined to see Menjangan Island’s renowned reefs, I circled back to one of the dive schools, Dive Concepts, which offered the best package. I canceled my Ubud transport and rebooked for a snorkeling tour the next morning. To capture the experience, I bought a waterproof case for my phone, hoping to get some good underwater shots.

Back at the hostel, I took another dip in the pool, showered off the day, and enjoyed some downtime. Later, I opted for a local dinner at Ikan Bakar Cak Rahman, a modest, family-run spot that turned out to be one of my favourite meals of the trip. The family served me grilled calamari, prawns in padang sauce, spicy rice, and to top it off, a juicy mango straight from their garden. We had a lovely chat, using Google Translate to bridge the language gap.

Back at the hostel, I found myself reconsidering my travel plans, deciding to leave Uluwatu for last and head straight to the southern Nusas.

DAY 14 (15.11.24) BALI, Manjangan Island -> Munduk -> Samur

I woke up early at 6 a.m. in my cozy pod, feeling refreshed after a good night’s sleep. A quick session on Duolingo kicked off the day, followed by an abs workout on the rooftop terrace of the hostel. Surrounded by vibrant bougainvillea and stunning views, it was a magical way to start the morning. Breakfast at the hostel’s restaurant was pricey but worth it: fluffy pancakes (and fresh fruit) which were easily the best I’ve had so far, a pleasant surprise compared to the usual dense, chewy ones I’ve encountered up that point.

The morning got a bit hectic when my roommate monopolised the bathroom, leaving me scrambling to get ready. Eventually, I hopped on my scooter and headed to Pemuteran for the snorkeling trip, which cost 600,000 rupiahs (around 36 euro). Most visitors were there to dive, but I stuck with snorkeling: and I’m so glad I did. The best sights were close to the surface, where vibrant coral and colorful fish came into view.

Our group headed by van to a harbor near Menjangan Island, part of Bali’s West Bali National Park. The island is famed for its crystal-clear waters and pristine reefs. After a short sail, we reached the first stop, a stunning coral reef. The visibility wasn’t perfect but leagues better than Pemuteran Beach. Armed with my waterproof iPhone case, I managed to take some cool underwater videos during the 45-minute snorkel session. The eerie sounds of bats greeted us at the next stop, a bat cave by the shore, before we landed on Menjangan Island for lunch.

Lunch was basic but satisfying, made better by the unexpected sight of wild deer cooling off in the ocean. Afterwards, we sailed to another snorkel spot, though the strong currents and plankton stings made it less enjoyable. The highlight? Spotting a majestic sea turtle, which made every itch and burn worthwhile.

By mid-afternoon, my sunscreen had failed (despite the protection 50 and me applying literally every 10 minutes), leaving my back painfully sunburned. We sailed back, returned to the dive centre, and I slathered on after-sun lotion before starting the ride back to Munduk.

Back at Desa Hostel, the owner, Daddy, took one look at my burnt back and treated it with aloe vera straight from the plant. I rewarded myself with a comforting dessert: boiled bananas caramelised to perfection with a barbie pink fruit shake on the side.

The day wasn’t over yet. I arranged a cab to Sanur, as Grab doesn’t operate in northern Bali. The drive south-east was long (about 4 hours), extremely pricey (about 30 euro, which is absurdly expensive for Indonesian standards) and dark, but the mellow pop music and warm demeanour of the driver and his partner made it pleasant. I spent the drive chatting with my mum on the phone and catching up with messages and emails.

Arriving late at Ayan Hostel, a clean and minimalist spot, I checked myself in since no receptionist was present. Hungry, I ventured out, only to find most places closed. A warung next door turned out to be hosting a private party, so I called it a night without dinner.

DAY 15 (16/11/24) BALI, Nusa Lembongan + Nusa Cenigang

Woke up in the middle of a blackout at the hostel: no electricity, no fan, just sweat. I grabbed a taxi (thankfully cheap!) to the harbor, where I shelled out IDR 250,000 (about 15 euro) for a ticket to Nusa Lembongan. While waiting, I endured a scalding hot coffee. The boat ride to Lembongan took about 40 minutes, packed with Aussies fresh from Seminyak and Canggu. Their vibe had me hoping Lembongan wasn’t just another Instagram playground (turned out it kind of was).

On arrival, I rented a scooter for IDR 140,000 (about 9 euro) for two days (steep and limited to midnight, unlike the mainland). Strapped my backpack on my still-burning back from snorkelling in Menjangan, I rode to Dream Beach Hostel, run by the lovely Panda and his partner. After a quick coffee, I headed out, fighting the oppressive heat and humidity.

The north coast of Lembongan surprised me with serene seaweed farms. Watching the locals work the water under a white, hazy sky was oddly captivating. I crossed the Yellow Bridge (a narrow scooter-only path) into Nusa Ceningan, hoping for hidden gems. While Secret Point Beach and Blue Lagoon were beautiful, they lacked energy, and the lighting didn’t help my attempts at photography.

I stopped for lunch at YuYu Resto, enjoying a ginger tuna steak and snagging some shell necklaces (yes, “for women”: I rocked them anyway). Next was three Islands Bar, an Instagram darling perched high above the island with an infinity pool and tourist-centric charm. The roads there were treacherous (gravel, dirt, and chaos) but the iced coffee and swim made up for it.

Returning to Lembongan, I stumbled upon a vibrant Hindu ceremony near the mangroves. Locals in stunning traditional attire brought offerings to the temple. A scene of culture and grace that felt even more authentic considering there weren’t tourists around. The mangroves at low tide were hauntingly beautiful, with exposed roots weaving through crystal-clear waters. I skipped the boat tour, wary of mosquitoes, and moved on.

I wrapped up the day at Dream Beach and Devil’s Tears. The latter, a cliffside viewpoint famous for crashing waves, was underwhelming due to the haze but delivered a bonus: dolphins dancing in the waves. Dinner at Warung Tumpang Sari Lembongan was the day’s culinary highlight: delicious, traditional, and bustling with locals.

Back at the hostel, the crowd skewed young and Aussie, heading to a full moon party I skipped. The vibe on these islands leans heavily touristy, catering to Instagram culture with empty resorts and overpriced “hidden gems.” The eerie quiet left me introspective. Full moon blues? Maybe. I’m a cancer after all.

DAY 16 (17.11.24) BALI, Nusa Lembongan -> Nusa Penida

I woke up early at 6 a.m., planning to work out on the beach, but exhaustion won, and I snoozed until 7. Breakfast at the hostel turned out to be a disappointment: a sugary mix of jelly, orange juice, and watered-down coffee. Still, the bright weather encouraged me to explore more of Nusa Lembongan, revisiting spots I’d missed the day before.

First stop was Dream Beach, but the morning sun was unkind, washing out any chance of a decent photo. I shrugged it off as fate and moved on to Jungut Batu Beach on the west coast: a long stretch of sand lined with touristy beach bars. It was pleasant but lacked any real charm, so I returned to the southern coast to revisit the seaweed farmers. With better light, I managed to capture a few good shots before crossing the Yellow Bridge again to Nusa Ceningan. I retraced my steps along the northern coast, snapping the missed views from the day before.

Lembongan, overall, left me unimpressed. The northern and western coasts felt like diluted tourist traps: something straight out of Seminyak’s energy. However, I appreciated the southern and eastern coasts for their local vibe. By midday, I returned my scooter at the Yellow Bridge, checked out of my hostel (nearly forgetting to pay, embarrassingly), and caught a speedboat to Nusa Penida for just 5,000 rupiahs (about 3 euros). The short 15-minute crossing was shared with locals and only two other tourists, and though my seat was in the sun, I avoided the worst of the waves. Karma, I suppose.

Nusa Penida welcomed me with a distinctly different vibe: quaint, serene, and refreshingly authentic. On the beach, locals helped me rent a scooter, more expensive but worth it, considering the island’s notoriously rugged roads: narrow, steep, and riddled with gravel and hairpin bends. A solid bike was non-negotiable here. My first mission was to book a dive at Manta Point, ignoring advice from skeptics in Menjangan who warned against it. I found a dive center run by Spaniards, DPM Diving (De Puta Madre), and secured a spot for the next morning since afternoon dives weren’t possible due to rough seas. It meant spending an extra night on Penida, disrupting my original itinerary, but I told myself it was for a reason.

Accommodation for the night was a charming cottage I’d booked on the boat: traditional and quiet, a much-needed upgrade from hostel dorms. After settling in, I had lunch at the local warung, a delicious and inexpensive seafood mie goreng. Fueled up, I hit the road again, exploring Penida’s raw beauty.

My first stop, Kroya Panorama Point, was unfortunately underwhelming: a warung rooftop with a view of green hills. Meh. Hoping for better, I headed to Tembeling Beach and Forest, a remote spot accessible via a jungle path so steep and rough that locals suggested I ditch my scooter for a ride with them. Stubbornly, I navigated it myself, surviving a nerve-wracking descent to the start of a staircase winding through lush forest to the beach. The reward was worth it. On one side, a dramatic rocky coastline with towering cliffs and solitude; on the other, a sandy beach with natural pools shared by a handful of locals and tourists. Exhausted but happy, I made my way back, helmet hilariously backward, a mistake that drew chuckles from amused locals.

Next, I rode to Kelingking Beach, perhaps Indonesia’s most iconic viewpoint. After parking, I cooled off with a coconut, dodging geckos and their droppings before heading to the edge. The view, a T-Rex-shaped headland jutting into turquoise waters, was breathtaking despite cloudy skies. As the golden hour hit, I ventured down the infamous trail to the beach, in flip-flops, gripping makeshift fences to avoid slipping. The beach itself was otherworldly, with soft sand, crashing waves, and that surreal blue water. I ignored the dangerous currents, plunged in, and savored the moment. Climbing back up was grueling but satisfying, and I returned to my cottage singing as I rode through the dark jungle.

Dinner was a cozy affair back at the warung: a hearty gado-gado, Balinese seafood curry, and fresh fruit. As I settled into my cottage, I felt deeply grateful. Nusa Penida, with its rugged beauty and authenticity, had already won me over entirely.