Canang Sari [an Indonesian travel diary, pt. I]

Canang Sari is a traditional Balinese offering central to Hindu rituals in Bali, Indonesia. It consists of a small, colourful arrangement of flowers and other items (rice, candies, cigarettes, sometimes even coffee), typically placed on an offering tray, to honour the gods, spirits and ancestors

DAY 1 (2.11.24) SINGAPORE

After a long, bare-bones flight on Scoot from Athens, I arrived at Singapore’s Changi Airport. From the moment I stepped in, I was hit by the sleek, modern vibe. Jewel’s Rain Vortex, the indoor waterfall, cascading through lush greenery, was both stunning and surreal, an extremely fitting intro to this city.

I took a taxi to my friend Sanju’s high-end apartment downtown. The skyline along the way was breathtaking, with creatively designed skyscrapers and perfectly maintained streets. Her apartment was equally impressive, with pools, tennis courts, and a live-in helper. After freshening up, we set out to explore with her baby, Lia.

Our first stop was a local café for a traditional Singaporean breakfast. I tried soft-boiled eggs with soy sauce and white pepper, kaya toast, and a spicy, soupy curry: flavours I’d never had together, but somehow worked perfectly. We spent the morning catching up on each other’s lives since she moved to Singapore. After all we hadn’t seen each other for more than a year!

With Lia down for her nap later, Sanju and I took the MRT to Marina Bay. Seeing the Marina Bay Sands, ArtScience Museum, and the Singapore Flyer all in one view was incredible: like stepping into a picture perfect futuristic postcard. Even with overcast skies, the Marina had a vibrant energy, mixing nature, art, and architecture in a way that felt distinctly Singaporean.

From there, we walked to Gardens by the Bay. The Supertree Grove, with its towering vertical gardens, was mesmerizing even without perfect photo light. By now, jet lag was kicking in hard, but with so much to take in, I barely noticed as we wandered around, iced tea in hand, and talked nonstop (a trademark of mine and Sanju’s 12 years long friendship).

In the evening, we headed downtown to one of Singapore’s famous hawker centers, Lau Pa Sat, a bustling maze of vendors selling street food from all over Asia. We sampled laksa, wonton soup, satay skewers, and dry noodles. Each dish an explosion of flavour. I couldn’t believe how clean, safe, and lively it all felt. Singapore’s orderliness is almost surreal; there’s no litter, not even a chewing gum or a cigarette butt on the pavement and even the greenery feels carefully curated.

What impressed me most was the blend of cultures. Everywhere, people of different backgrounds seemed to coexist so naturally. Sanju mentioned how perfect Singapore felt for raising Lia, where diversity is simply a part of life.

Full and exhausted, we headed back to her apartment. After a quick shower to wash off the humidity, I said good night to Sanju, grateful for the time she’d carved out for this perfect day. I crashed into bed, though sleep was brief with an early alarm for my morning flight to Bali.

Singapore was a whirlwind: polished to an almost surreal degree, diverse and cosmopolitan, yet grounded in a warm sense of connection and culture.

DAY 2 (3.11.24) BALI, Ubud

The day started early with a flight from Singapore to Bali, and by the time I landed, I was ready to dive right in. I grabbed a SIM card, exchanged some cash, and lucked out with a taxi driver who was both friendly and full of great local advice. The hour-and-a-half drive to Ubud took me through lush green landscapes and quiet villages, a beautiful introduction to Bali’s laid-back energy.

Ubud itself struck me as calm yet lively: a blend of small neighborhoods, local markets, and greenery that felt worlds away from a typical tourist town. Though geared heavily toward visitors, with cafes mostly serving Western options, it has a unique rhythm and charm. My hostel, Savanna Ubud, was a great find: a laid-back place with a pool and a social vibe that made it fairly easy to settle in.

I kicked things off with a quick haircut and beard trim at a barbershop nearby, where the barber jokingly said I looked like Robert Downey Jr… Sure. Afterward, I grabbed lunch at Watercress Cafe, which turned out to be another hipster spot focused on westerner dishes. Had to make me think of the digital nomad’s pleaser Tulum and how adamant I became when I was in Mexico to ignore such places unless they were the only available option. Later in the afternoon, jet lag hit, so I decided to recharge by the pool with some Taylor Swift on repeat. The heat was no joke: I was literally dripping in sweat just by sitting and breathing.

As sunset approached, I rented a scooter for two days (a total steal at 8 euros) and set off for the Campuhan Ridge Walk. The path was scenic and peaceful, with views of jungle-covered hills stretching out on both sides. Though the temple I’d planned to visit, Pura Gunung Lebah, was closed for a local celebration, the walk was worth it. I made my way back as the sun dipped, whistling to Taylor’s Lover and enjoying the calm of dusk.

Finding dinner took a bit of effort, as most places cater to tourists, and, as I did it, I stumbled upon a small Balinese temple where a group of adults and children were performing hypnotic, traditional music. I finally found Warung Compound (god bless Google), a local spot serving traditional dishes. On the waiter’s suggestion, I had bakwan ayam (veggie fritters) and nasi campur (rice with small portions of several local dishes): easily one of the best meals I’ve had in a while, with spicy rich flavours and a home-cooked feel.

As I left the restaurant, I unexpectedly spotted two white lop-eared rabbits, which felt like a strange but lovely omen, reminding me of the white lop I’d found on my bed in the yurt in Kyrgyzstan.

Ubud has a unique balance: calm yet vibrant, welcoming but alive with energy. The people are warm and genuine, and despite catering to tourists, prices remain surprisingly reasonable. Just one day in, and I can already see why this place draws people in. It’s easy to unwind here, yet there’s always something new to discover.

DAY 3 (4.11.24) BALI, Ubud

Jet-lagged and awake at 5 a.m., I kickstarted my day in Ubud with an early outdoor workout (I mean when there’s a gym at the hostel you kinda can’t ignore it), enjoying the bright, warm morning. After a quick swim and a protein-packed breakfast at the hostel, my day’s adventure began. Scooter in hand, I headed north, aiming to catch Bali’s iconic rice terraces before the crowds rolled in.

First stop: the Mopo and Tegalalang Rice Terraces. These emerald-green fields were peaceful and stunning in the soft light, though the hike down to Mopo was challenging in the humidity and my asthma got the best of me. After taking in the scenery, I rode through timeless idyllic villages to Tirta Empul Temple, famous for its sacred water purification rituals. Watching the mix of worshipers and tourists, I felt torn: part of me wanted to join, but the scene felt more like a spectacle than a spiritual experience, so I chose to explore instead. I discovered a tranquil koi pond and stunning floating water lilies, that didn’t seem to be in the radar of any other tourist.

A local then suggested a coffee plantation visit, so I made my way up the hill. There, a friendly guide took me through the unique process of Balinese coffee, including kopi luwak, made from beans eaten and pooped by the civet, a nocturnal mammal with an appetite for coffee beans. After sampling several teas and coffees (delicious but sweetened beyond belief) I tried the luwak coffee itself. It was aromatic, slightly sour, and, with a touch of coconut sugar, surprisingly good.

Back on the road, a minor scooter hiccup brought me to a local mechanic, where a quick fix got me back on track. Next stop was the Gunung Kawi Temple, nestled in a lush valley surrounded by rice terraces and carved cliffs. The long, extremely sweaty, descent was worth it: peaceful and isolated, with just the sound of the river, it felt like a world apart.

Feeling thoroughly worn out, I decided to recharge at the Cretya Resort, set in Alas Harum, a jungle park with very questionable Instagram-ready art installations, including those ever so annoying insta-famous swings. Although way over the top with influencers and a DJ spinning saxophone-heavy “feel good” tunes, I met Clemence, a French traveler, and we had a good laugh over the scene. Little we knew in that moment that me and her would become tight-knit travel buddies for the following days.

Later, I wound down at Sweet Orange Warung, a traditional roadside shack overlooking rice fields, right at golden hour. Surrounded by rice fields, I watched the farmers finishing up their day as I enjoyed a spicy fish dish and a dessert of black sticky rice, coconut ice cream, and condensed milk. The evening walk back through pitch-dark rice fields was serene, and after a shower and some quick chats with my hostel roommates, I finally felt my jet lag slipping away.

DAY 4 (5.11.24) BALI, Ubud

The day began quietly under the Ubud sun, and I decided to keep it slow: a relaxed breakfast, skipping my usual workout, and heading out to explore. I went first to the Grand Palace, but having visited it before (without actually being aware it was the famous royal palace…), I quickly moved on to Pura Taman Kemuda Sarasvati, a stunning water temple surrounded by lotus ponds. The place was serene, and for a moment, I had it all to myself. In true Bali fashion, I was asked to wear traditional attire for respect, though locals casually strolled in their regular clothes, which felt a bit confusing.

Next, I was planning on visiting Pura Gunung Lebar, a temple I had missed on my first night in Ubud. It turned out to be off-limits to tourists, open only for religious practices. There, I ran into Martin, a traveler from the Czech Republic living in Australia. We connected quickly, and he suggested I checked out the Yoga Barn, an iconic wellness retreat he described as “mind-blowing.” By then, my day felt off-kilter, so I headed back to the hostel, wore my speedo and grabbed a coconut by the pool where I planned the next few days.

I tried to drive north to a waterfall that looked incredible in photos, but the midday heat, humidity, and intense traffic made it unbearable. I took it as a sign and followed Martin’s suggestion to the Yoga Barn. The complex, set amid lush greenery and inspired by traditional Balinese design, was impressive. Though no yoga classes were available at the time I made it there, I booked a massage in a cozy wooden cabin. The treatment was intense (damn I never knew there was so much tension around my thighs!) and, in a few moments, quite relaxing. Afterwards, I enjoyed a yummy yet fairly overpriced for Ubud standards, healthy lunch at the café, surrounded by an eclectic mix of digital nomads and yogis.

Later in the afternoon I signed up for a vinyasa flow class with a British instructor named Becks. The room was packed with about fifty people, its windows framing views of the jungle. The class was good, though maybe not as transformative as I’d hoped. Still, I enjoyed the experience.

At sunset, I made my way to a traditional Balinese dance performance at a temple near the Grand Palace. The dancers, with intricate hand gestures and expressive eyes, performed as if in a trance, bringing age-old stories to life. The raw, almost timeless energy of the performance was inspiring, though I noticed some tourists fidgeting, talking loud and constantly checking their phones. Low attention span anybody?! I found it extremely rude towards the performers and it made me wonder what kind of opinion they might have on tourists.

I ended the evening with dinner at Fair Warung Bale, a small restaurant that donates its profits to healthcare for those in need. The atmosphere was humble, the portions modest, and the food felt like a tasty home-cooked meal.

Reflecting on the day, I realized it didn’t go as planned, but maybe that’s what made it meaningful. I’m used to traveling with a mission, constantly on the move, camera in hand. Today taught me the value of slowing down and letting go of control. Bali has its own pace, and perhaps the real lesson is learning to embrace it.

DAY 5 (6.11.24) BALI, Ubud -> Sidemen

I started the day with an early workout in the hostel garden, finishing just as the sun began to heat up the day. Over breakfast, I chatted with my roommate, Magda, who was heading back to Switzerland, and mentioned about her plan to spend her layover in Singapore splashing on a rooftop pool. An idea that would come at handy some time later. My first stop was Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu, a quiet purification temple about 30 minutes north of Ubud where I would dip myself in holy water. Unlike the crowded Tirtha Empul, this temple was serene and nearly empty, with only a father and child feeding koi fish and an elderly man who served as a guide for my ritual. He spoke little English but warmly walked me through each step: three rounds of prayer, flowers placed behind each ear and on my head, and finally a holy bath in the ritual pool. At each fountain (10 of them), I paused to immerse myself, both literally and spiritually, reflecting on themes of love, health, bravery, and gratitude for the challenges of the past year and the lessons they had taught me. I found myself eager to embrace new opportunities for a fresh start, pushing aside any guilt I felt about cultural appropriation. Hours later, as I checked the picture the old man took on my phone, I realised my sarong was see-through…

After drying off and thanking my guide, I returned to Ubud, filled the scooter’s tank for 1 euro, returned it to the rental shop, and was careful to pay for the extra day fee the lady had forgotten about (not messing up with my karma now that it was meant to be “clean”). I then packed up, checked out of the hostel, and took a Grab to Sidemen, a quieter village surrounded by rice terraces and lush countryside.

The 90-minute drive from bustling Ubud transitioned into peaceful landscapes, with winding roads lined by rice paddies and small villages dotted with temples. The further we went, the narrower and rougher the roads became until finally, we arrived at Kailash Warung and Homestay: a simple yet charming accommodation run by a warm Balinese family. After renting a scooter from them, I set out for Gembleng Waterfall, a series of natural pools on terraced lava rocks. On the way, I ran into Clémence, the French backpacker I’d met in the hip pool in Ubud, and we continued together, climbing up to the top pools to cool off despite the crowds.

As golden hour approached, I made my way to Sidemen’s rice fields for a quiet walk along the canal. Locals bathed in the river while butterflies floated through the air, creating a magical scene. The path led me through terraces, past farmers wrapping up their day, as the sky softened to twilight. I felt a sense of peace and stillness.

In the evening, Clémence and I met for dinner at Lihat Sawa, an elegant-looking spot that turned out to be underwhelming: overpriced and average food, though it was a great chance to talk and to get to know each other better. We discovered that we shared similar experiences, from work stress to relationship disappointments. And it felt clear that a friendship between us was very likely to blossom.